Tha basics are in place, but it goes a lot further. The question is of course – the target audience. How much can they absorb?
One thing that I find very risky, is your statement that the majority of braking force is applied via the front – this may well be very true for pure sports bikes, but as the bdy position changes towards upright and then lying back, the brake load distribution changes dramatically – to over 2/3rds on a custom bike with raked forks. On many “cruisers” the front brake only offers a”light drag”, the majority of braking coming from the rear. This is due to weight distribution, contact patch and a few other factors. So make that clear – the brake force almost follows the body position (in typical MC configurations – that is of course an exaggeration, but it gets the point across, a bias of around 20-30% remains on the front).
It is not actually the pitch of the bike, but dynamic loading following “the principles of moments”, the mass pushes towards (against) the opposing force. Consider cantilever suspension, or the BMW “wishbone” that do not compress, therefore no pitch,
When it comes to braking, you should actually apply the rear brake as well, immediately! Before the dynamic loading takes place (what you call pitch) the rear brake has a larger portion of the load and is therefore effective, This also helps to actually reduce pitch as the bike “sits down / digs in”, supporting stability and also slightly reducing the load on arms / head yoke, making rider induced instability slightly less of an issue.
As dynamic loading increases, the weight bias will of course shift forwards, possibly rendering the rear brake on a sports bike “ineffective”.
Another issue is quite simply cognitive capacity of average riders. A trailing fixed wheel (as in the rear not being a steering wheel) has limited influence on stability when locked, therefore it is actually better to apply the rear firmly (immediately), at the risk of it locking (even when skidding it has around 70-80% of potential drag) and being able to concentrate on the front steering and not locking up.
When it comes to ABS – there are various systems, and they are a compromise – not forgetting the “anti-stoppie” function, preventing the rear lifting / somersaults. Therefore they are never as good as braking by a very experienced (read professional) rider under ideal conditions – but – they are significantly better in almost all circumstances with your (even above) average road rider. The confidence in just “squeezing it for all you’ve got” is so much greater that average riders with ABS reduce their braking distance by up to 1/3. Not beacause the brakes are significantly better, but because the rider is not scared of squeezing the brake hard.
Sports ABS has even been tested in racing on premium national level (international professional riders in national championships where standard production machines are strongly modified – the classes immediately below World SBK) and top riders have not been slowed by it – so anybody who says ABS is for amateurs is simply not admitting it has a huge safety factor – it has come a long way in 25 years…!!
If you explaining to your audience that what you are explaining is simplified, and using slightly incorrect terms (not wrong, but not precise enough) to enable easy understanding, then you should be fine, But please, get people to do 3 different braking exercises – from a set speed only rear, set speed only front and same set speed both. Show them the difference – and take note how different bikes will have a different “gap” between front and rear. Then teach them to “lock up the rear” and control the front. Every bit helps, especially when coming from speeds of 100Kph or more – those few meters can make the difference between stopping in time and a painful impact – stopping 5 meters sooner means a huge difference in speed and pain…
oh, and don’t forget how much influence suspension has…
This very helpful information was presented by Paul Rowney International & Sales specialist at PR- Consulting